Dealing with Yellow Jackets Quickly and Easily

Save the bees… but get rid of all the yellow jackets you can find.

I love honeybees… Without them, we would all die because they pollinate 70% of the food we consume. But, I never feel even the tiniest bit guilty of swiftly ending the lives of yellow jackets on our survival homestead retreat.

Yellow jackets serve no beneficial purpose to the well-being of our family, and their stings hurt – a lot – so they will remain on the “most wanted” and “kill on sight” lists on our homestead. Alright, yellow jackets can serve one purpose, they do eat insects that want to steal your garden crops right out from under your nose.

a yellowjacket on a leaf
a yellowjacket on a leaf

But, I prefer not to stumble across a yellow jacket ground nest while pulling weeds and take care of the pest myself with homemade all-natural pesticides.

Unlike the slight pain of a bee sting, a yellow jacket sting packs a pretty big punch. Not only are yellow jackets more likely to swarm than other types of bees, they WILL chase you just like a hornet.

There are a vast array of flying and stinging insects in the United States, and it is important to know the difference before encountering them and especially before attempting to get rid of them.

When something is buzzing about your face trying to sting you, it is not the time to take a closer look. Nearly all types of “bees” move too fast and are too small for such an inspection – particularly when they are already in attack mode.

A yellow jacket is typically a ground-nesting wasp species. They are somewhat larger than a honeybee and have black and bright yellow stripes that wrap around their entire bodies. It is a common type of wasp and is smaller (yet no less vicious) than a hornet.

Yellow jackets, like other members of the hornet family, sting not just once like honey bees, but repeatedly. While they are stinging, the yellow jackets inject a pheromone that lures other members of their colony to the attack site and entices them to sting the intruder repeatedly, as well.

Types of Yellow Jackets

There are several types of yellow jackets you might find. These social wasps are members of the Vespula species and can produce several thousand workers per colony per season.

The German Yellowjacket is most commonly found in structures and is native to the northeastern and midwestern portions of the United States. It typically lives in wall voids, structures, attics, cracks, and crawlspaces in the exterior of a building.

The common yellowjacket is frequently found in the United States as well. These wasps construct above- and below-ground nests. The western yellowjacket, on the other hand, makes its nest in the ground, as does the eastern yellow jacket.

These wasps are most commonly referred to as meat bees. They often use rodent burrows for nests, too, but they are opportunistic – they will even choose concrete blocks or railroad ties in which to make their homes.

Finally, there are some yellow jackets that build aerial nests either from trees or attached to the eaves of buildings. These tend to be non-aggressive wasp species, so we won’t refer to them in this post.

15 Yellowjacket Facts

1. Yellow jackets are sometimes called “meat bees” because they are attracted to and love to dine on, rotting meat and fish.

2. Yellowjackets almost exclusively build their nests underground, and take advantage of old rodent burrows – or run the rodents out of their burrows and take them over.

3. The nests created by these fierce insects can measure several inches deep and about three feet in diameter.

4. Yellowjackets spend the spring beefing up their numbers and growing their strength.

5. By the late summer months, a single yellow jacket nest can be home to THOUSANDS of stinging members.

6. The insects will vigorously defend not just their nest but the area around it from potential intruders.

7. Yellowjackets appear to have honed their sense to detect even the slightest vibration in the ground about their heads and the sounds of an approaching potential intruder.

Even a child’s bouncing ball or a push mower running up to 20 feet away from a yellow jacket nest can provoke their ire and send as many as 100 attackers out in a swarm to get rid of the attacking sound.

8. The nests hit their peak in both numbers and strength during the fall months.

9. The insects are at their least active stage during the evening hours.

10. The members of a nest always return home by dark, making that the best time to trap and get rid of them.

11. To locate a yellow jacket nest entrance point, quietly and from a safe distance, sit and watch the flight pattern of the wasps as their fly to and from their safe place. Usually, the insects create a backup exit point for their nests.

You need to be aware of both holes in order to trap and kill the insects. Failing to do so will increase your risk of being attacked or swarmed while in the process of destroying the nest.

12. Signs of an allergic reaction to a sting include swelling of the throat or mouth, difficulty speaking or breathing, the emergence of hives, tightness in the chest, and You’ve been stung more than 10 times and wheezing while speaking or breathing.

13. Yellowjacket colonies die off during the cold winter months.

14. New wasp queens are the only members of the colonies that survive from one season to the next.

The newly crowned queen yellow jacket will leave the nest in autumn and spend the winter living in whatever protective area she can find nearby, like under the bark of a tree.

15. Except on chilly days, the wasps spend their days out foraging. Placing a food-baited trap next to where you suspect a nest is located during the evening hours, will likely be the best way to attract the yellow jackets the following day as they leave the nest without getting attacked in the process.

How To Find Yellow Jacket Nests

Yellow jackets tend to love wood, and most often make their nests in the middle of it. Expect to encounter yellow jacket nests in your barns, outbuildings, and firewood piles every spring or summer.

The wasps frequently use wood pulp and paper trash to create their nests – hence their nickname “paper wasps.” There is no visible or obvious nest structure of any type above ground level.

Yellowjackets rarely fly more than several inches above the ground when out foraging for food. They fly erratically while out hunting. This fact can make it far more difficult to track them back to their nest.

If you spot a yellow jacket flying higher off the ground and in a more direct pattern, it is likely on the way back to the nest – follow it carefully from a safe distance. When flying home for the night, the wasp will typically be moving at a fast pace because it is not maneuvering about looking for food.

The only other time you will likely ever see a yellow jacket fly rapidly, in a direct line, and higher off the ground is when it is in attack mode.

Once you have determined even an approximate location of the nest, it is time to set bait a trap to lure them to their death – or use one of the other means on the list below, to rid your land of their existence… until next spring, at least.

Before you attempt to exterminate yellow jackets, though, make sure you have properly identified the species. Yellow jackets are often mistaken for honey bees. However, honeybees will be slightly larger and will have hairy abdomens.

How To Get Rid of Yellowjackets

Bait Trap

Yellow jackets cannot resist the smell of rotting meat or the taste of something sweet. There are many versions of yellow jacket traps using both types of bait detailed and demonstrated in YouTube videos, but the one I have found works best is the board and bucket-style trap.

To make this type of yellow jacket trap, all you need are four different materials – no power tools required.

Simply smear to tie into a dangling mesh net, some rotting meat, rotting fruit, or smeared jelly onto one side of a scrap wood board.

Next, fill a bucket with soapy water (I used Blue Dawn dish soap) just shy of all the way to the top – depending upon how low your bait will dangle.

Place the board with the bait dangling side down, right on top of the bucket.

The objective is to have the water level only an inch (or perhaps two) below where the wasps will have to hang upside down to eat the bait. They will not likely be able to resist gorging themselves on the bait, and sometimes lose their balance in the process and fall into the soapy water and drown.

The wasps also tend to drown because they have great difficulty righting themselves and regaining their balance with immensely full bellies, and after hanging upside down for so long.

Sometimes, in their excitement over the meal and desire to rapidly return to the nest, they simply mistakenly fly straight down into the water and… drown.

The temperature of the water does not matter, but the soap does. It alters the denseness of the water and helps to avoid the brief moment the wasps have to flap their wings rapidly enough to prevent sinking into a watery grave.

If you sit patiently and quietly and watch any yellow jackets that escape your baited trap, you should be able to see them fly back to the nest and use another method from this list to destroy their nest and get rid of the rest of the colony as well.

Clear Glass Bowl

If you know where the underground wasp nest is located, place a clear glass bowl over the opening. But, only one opening, even if you find their backup escape route.

The yellow jackets will continue to use their primary entry and exit point because they will not be able to figure out why they can suddenly no longer get out. The clear glass bowl (use a heavy one and/or place a rock, brick, or log on it, to keep it firmly affixed to the ground so the wasps cannot burrow out) allows the insects to still see the sun and be attracted to it.

Actually, not only will they be attracted to the warm glare of the sun created by the bowl, they will eventually get angry out it blocking their path and attack it. Pure exhaustion caused by their frantic attack flying and trying to sting the glass will eventually kill them.

Placing a second bowl over the other exit will immediately alert the yellow jackets that they have been trapped, prompting them to do just dig another way out. Once out, the colony may decide to abandon the nest and build another one nearby, in a spot that you will again have to hunt to find.

The glass bowl yellow jacket trap will not kill all of the yellow jackets at once, nor is it an immediate fix to the situation. But, as long as the bowl remains in place, more of the wasps will continue to attempt to permeate the barrier and attack it to the point of exhaustion, on a daily basis.

The stubborn meat bees have even been known to starve themselves to death because they refuse to leave the former entryway until they can clear it and remove the threat to their queen.

Boiling Water

Once you find the underground nest, pour boiling water down the opening to boil the wasps alive. Some folks simply pour warm water down the hole, but this just serves to make the meat bees angry…very angry.

If you do not take care of the yellow jackets while they are tucked away at night in the underground nest with the boiling water, they will just flee until the warm water dries up and their home is no longer flooded and return – or relocate to a nearby spot unknown to you and prepare to strike at intruders to their realm once again.

Shop Vacuum

This yellow jacket trap can be used for both underground nests and hanging nests – albeit with greater caution.

If the nest if far from your house, which is often the case because paper wasps love to live in barns and gardens, you will need a generator or lots of long outdoor extension cords to use this yellow jacket trap.

Fill the shop vacuum about halfway full of soapy water after you have located the nest.

Place a bowl or rock over the secondary opening of the nest.

Turn on the vacuum, and prepare to stand there for about an hour with the suction end placed firmly to the ground, to suck out all of the meat bees. If there are hundreds to thousands of colony members, it could take several hours to suck them all out of the nest.

Beware, if you let up the pressure when holding the opening of the shop vacuum to the ground, the yellow jackets will escape through any tiny separations between the dirt and the hose and attack you both viciously and relentlessly.

This trap really should be a team effort. There is the possibility that some of the paper wasps will attempt to tunnel out by making a new entrance – and attack you while you are holding the hose. Have a helper stand at the ready with multiple cans of bug spray to kill the yellow jackets and protect you both.


Borax is toxic to yellow jackets. It makes both a great preventative to their nest-building habits and can be used to pour into an entryway to an underground colony to kill them.

But, Borax will also kill beneficial insects, garden crops, and landscaping flowers that come into direct contact with it (sprinkling it around the base of plants will deter insects from eating your growing food) domestic pets, and wildlife.

Dry Ice

Although this is not going to be the easiest yellow jacket trap material to get a hold of, it does work beautifully to accomplish the task at hand.

After locating the underground nest of the wasps, as quietly as possible (remember, yellow jackets can detect the vibration of your footsteps) block both the primary and secondary exits to the nest.

Place the dry ice block over the primary entrance – removing the brick or bowl you used to temporarily cover it first – and quickly.

Surround the dry ice block with dirt to prevent any easy burrowing points.

The dry ice will chill the nest as it evaporates, which should make the yellow jackets highly lethargic, and release copious amounts of carbon dioxide into the nest at the same time.

Bug Zapper

Remember these things and how popular they were when they came out in the 1980s? Every backyard across America probably had one affixed to a porch with folks gathering around to watch and listen to the bugs meeting their demise.

Because of the combination of light, sound, and vibration, a bug zapper will attract as many (if not more) yellow jackets as it once did American families enjoying the erosion of bugs from their backyards.

The machine’s shocking ability is not what will kill the meat bees, but once again, exhaustion and stubbornness will be the cause of their demise. The yellow jackets will attack the light, sound, and vibration, the machine puts off until they die of either exhaustion or starvation – or both.

This yellow jacket trap will work best if you know where the underground nest is located on your property. If you only have a ballpark idea, it should have a solid amount of success, as well.

Run the machine (long extension cords may be required for this trap, too) during daylight hours when the yellow jackets are out foraging for food and in their most active state.

For the sake of safety, set the bug machine up at night when the yellow jackets are tucked away inside their underground colony and plug the extension cord connected to the machine in once the sun rises.

Cedar Oil

You can splash some cedar oil on your body to help deter yellow jackets from attacking you, but that is not the best use for this often difficult-to-find oil.

Cedar oil, a popular and powerful natural insecticide, is lethal to yellow jackets – among other insects. When the wasps come into contact with the potent oil they ultimately suffocate after suffering osmotic dehydration.

This same oil also causes the body fat inside the meat bees to emulsify and kill them. You can pour or spray the oil into an underground colony, or mix it into the boiling water you plan to pour into the primary nest opening to increase your odds of killing as many of the pesky insects as possible.

Diatomaceous Earth

Like borax, yellowjackets and nearly all other insects, find diatomaceous earth toxic. Unlike borax, Diatomaceous earth (DE) is not toxic to domestic pets or wildlife. It can also be sprinkled around crops and used as a natural pesticide.

Pour the DE down into the nest during the evening hours and around the above-ground area around it to take care of any of the paper wasps that were able to escape the dusting.

Peppermint Oil

Like most insects and wildlife, yellow jackets do not like strong smells and tastes. Peppermint oil can be used to pour into an underground nest to rid it of yellow jackets, but it will not likely kill them.

Peppermint oil, although not deadly to yellow jackets, can still be used to help combat them. Spray the oil around areas where the wasps would like to make a home or have been known to build nests in prior years.

Also, while you are hunting for a nest, actively setting a trap, or merely working in an area where the yellow jackets could be, dab your skin in various spots with peppermint oil (essential oils works best but baking oil is a decent substitute) as you would perfume to help deter the paper wasps from getting too close to you and attacking.

Neem Oil

This oil (which can be hard to find and expensive) not only kills yellowjackets, but destroys the ability of females to reproduce.

Neem oil contains azadirachtin. This active compound destabilizes the hormonal system of the paper wasp rather quickly. It also can be mixed into boiling water that is going to be poured into an underground nest or sprayed on an above-ground nest.

Gasoline And Diesel Fuel

This is the most dangerous, possibly destructive to the soil, and arguably effective, means of destroying an underground yellow jacket nest. This practice might not be legal in some municipalities or states – check your local laws before using a diesel or gasoline torch to burn out a colony.

If you are not careful and able to contain the fire after pouring diesel fuel or gasoline into an entryway in the nest and setting it on fire, you could be hurt or killed, the barn where the nest is located could go up in flames (sometimes hours after you leave and the animals are back in the barn where undetected smoldering wood finally catches on fire) or other various types of destruction that can come from playing with fire and an accelerant.

That being noted, my husband’s buddy did use this method inside my 100-year-old wood barn (when I wasn’t home) to get rid of the yellow jacket nest we had been tracking for weeks.

It worked and my barn is still standing – but that might very well be because my beloved has been an officer on the fire department for more than a decade.

Using Chemicals

In some cases, the more natural, homemade remedies of getting rid of yellow jackets that we have mentioned just won’t work. In that case, you may need to apply a chemical like D-Force HPX aerosol or Delta Dust. These should be last resorts.

You can apply Delta Dust around the nest and it will last for about four to six months, killing the yellow jackets instantly. Another option is Demon WP, an insecticide that can be applied everywhere using a gallon sprayer.

Be careful applying these chemicals where other beneficial pollinators, animals, or children can access them.

Preventing Yellow Jackets

Unfortunately, yellow jackets are an inevitable part of living in the countryside. If you live in the woods, you’re probably going to encounter these pests at some point or another.

However, you can help prevent the establishment of nests by filling up any burrows or animal holes with dirt.

You can keep yellow jackets outside of your barn by repairing any holes in the exterior wall and by making sure all windows and vents have tight-fitting screens.

Chimney flus can be sealed temporarily with plastic sheeting and tape, and trash bins should be covered with tight-fitting lids to prevent yellow jackets from being attracted to their contents.

Sanitation is an important aspect of keeping yellow jackets away. Once you have removed a potential source of food, you are going to be less likely to attract yellow jackets. This is especially vital during the key foraging months during the summer until mid-autumn.

Yellow Jacket Trapping Tips

Wear drab or light-colored clothing as much as possible when tracking or trapping the wasps. Purchasing beekeeper gear, while it can be pricey, might very well be worth the expense.

Protective clothing of any kind will help reduce the likelihood that you are attacked and stung. At the very minimum, you should wear light-colored clothes, high-sleeved gloves made out of leather or canvas, and a hat or helmet with a secure-fitting veil (which you can easily fashion on your own).

Killing the meat bees will not be a one-and-done type of situation, you will be fighting this same battle year after year and get ample opportunity to use the beekeeper gear again.

Take note of the yellow jacket nest during the day, and remember where they disappear into the structure. Don’t try to trap or kill them until nightfall, which is when yellow jackets are the least active and will be the least likely to sting.

You should also try to wait to remove a yellow jacket nest or kill a population until winter. These creatures are much less likely to take flight when temperatures dip below 50 degrees, and so they are mostly inactive or die off, depending on the exact species, during the winter months.

If you’ve sprayed chemicals or tried any other kind of treatment, wait at least a week to figure out whether the treatments were effective.

There’s no guarantee that you will have killed all of the wasps on your first treatment, so you will want to wait before interfering with the nest. After all, not all of the yellow jackets may have been inside when you applied your treatment.

Treating Yellow Jacket Stings

Disclaimer: this is not medical advice. Your first option should be to seek medical assistance. Neither the author nor shall be held liable for the damages and side effects that you might experience as a result of applying the advice given in this article.

  • Gently rub meat tenderizer on the stings.
  • Rub honeysuckle leaves onto the stings.
  • Rub our pour witch hazel onto the stings.
  • Make a paste out of 2 parts baking soda and 1 part water and dab it onto the stings.
  • Slather some raw honey onto the stings – this will help reduce swelling and draw out an infection to help prevent an allergic reaction.
  • Slice an onion thinly and place it upon the stings, wrapping it in a bandage or cloth to keep it in place, if necessary.
  • Gently rub Preparation H onto the stings.
  • Place a dampened tea bag onto the stings.
  • Rub toothpaste gently on the locations of the stings.
  • Put some ice on the sting as soon as possible after you’ve been stung – it will reduce pain and swelling.
  • Consider using essential oils like lavender, thyme, tea tree, or rosemary oil – just make sure you mix it with a neutral carrier oil first.
  • Use aloe Vera gel to soothe and moisturize your skin.
  • Apply a thin layer of calamine lotion to the sting.
  • Try applying apple cider vinegar to reduce swelling. Use sparingly, though, as it can be too acidic for the skin.

Yellow jacket stings often swell, itch, and are painful. Applying ice to the stings and taking over-the-counter or naturally foraged pain medication and inflammation reduction items, can help reduce the discomfort.

If you have a yellowjacket land on you, don’t panic or agitate the pest in any way. Instead, wait until it flies away. A rolled-up newspaper can easily kill a yellow jacket, but it could also introduce combat that will open you up to future stings. Yellow jackets are unlike bees in that they do not die after they sting you.

Furthermore, killing a yellow jacket or inciting a sting while others are nearby can create more problems. This releases an alarm venom into the air which can draw other yellow jackets to sting you – you have marked yourself as a target!

Signs of an allergic reaction to yellow jacket stings typically present almost immediately but can occur or worsen over the course of several hours after the attack.

Even an individual who doesn’t typically have allergic reactions to stings could become severely (or in some cases, fatally) affected after becoming the target of a yellow jacket swarm attack.

yellowjackets pinterest

13 thoughts on “Dealing with Yellow Jackets Quickly and Easily”

  1. You need to revise this, recognizing that yellow jackets are part of an ecosystem, predators who feed on other bugs. So if they are not bothering us, it is best to let them be. Please don’t kill those that aren’t harming us.

  2. For what it’s worth, here in Maryland in mid-August, I’ve got a YJ nest I’m dealing with, and had *zero* luck using either raw chicken, fresh jam, or a commercial RAID brand lure/bag. They just fly right past all three without so much as a backwards glance, very discouraging! This week though I put an electric bug zapper about 2 feet from their hole, right in their flight path, and that’s been bagging about 100 YJ’s a day so I think I’m going to just let it keep working it’s magic and see if it doesn’t eventually run the colony out.

    • To get rid of YJ fill a container with vinegar, sugar, and salt to trap and kill them.
      1/4 cup vinegar, 1/2 cup warm water, 1/2 sugar , 1teaspoon of salt
      I’ve been doing this for about a month. Its working

  3. Grest article. Today, I was working on the old, somewhat human-vandalised greenhouse. Sunny, warm, a nice day to work on it. Suddenly, long hanging legs attached to a wasp…onto my neck, brushed it away. It came, landed on the side of my nose, started to get me. I brushed it away. It never came, again. Marked for death, in to get the Peppermint oil. Dabbed it on the minor yet still stung nose spot and my hair, shirt, etc. Went back to work, no more flying commotion. Later, there it was. A bunch of paper cells, open, with every yellow body moving about. I attacked and they all died. My weapon? 80% Pine Sol and 20% water. Sprayed, sprayed, sprayed away. Nest and all bodies, died within 90 seconds. I did not have window cleaner with ammonia so, Pine Sol was my only option. Fermented lemon water, white vinegar, etc. are my normal chouces but, it was a do or probably die situation. At least Pine Sol is fairly safe to use and can be rinsed away enough it will not do too much damage just one time.

  4. For wasp stings, apply vinegar (any kind) directly to the sting site, the sooner the better. Wasp “venom” is alkaline and vinegar neutralises it very quickly, and does not harm people (unless of course you drink a lot of it neat, lol). For bee stings, use baking soda (bee stings are acidic). Hope that helps some folks if you’re unfortunate enough to get stung. The old saying is “Baking soda for Bees, Vinegar for Vasps”. I know from personal experience that both these work well, and very quickly, though the sting can itch a bit afterwards.

  5. Yellow Jacket nests are often located on a western slope with clear exposure to the east, so the rising sun warms the ground at the earliest time of the day. Leading to them begin foraging upon becoming warm. There are ones which overnight away from the nest until sunrise. I find nests by beginning my search at roughly 90 minutes after sunrise. With the sun being at a roughly flat angle, you can easily see the sun reflecting off their hard exoskeleton “glistening” as they fly to and from their nest. The higher the sun rises the less reflection you will see. My observations are that when this insect moves between their nest and their foraging ground and after they have obtained food for the hive. They fly directly and undeterred at about chest height. I have followed these hunters the length of a logging road. They rather like unobstructed corridors for travel instead of flying through wooded areas where they may get injured. I agree that when they are actively hunting they dart about inches away from the area being searched. The above holds true for Bald Face Hornets too.

    Thank you for the valuable information within the article. I learned a lot from it and appreciate being able to contribute a little.

  6. I suspect how high a yellowjacket will fly depends on where the food source is. I have both European paper wasps and yellowjackets that are feasting on aphids on potted mums on my attached deck — which sits at second story height — and in turn I have a Phoebe (flycatcher bird) feasting on the wasps every day. Still, I don’t want the yellowjackets anywhere near my property but, alas, I can’t seem to figure out where they are nesting. I read that they can travel as much as 1/4 mile for food so it’s likely that they’re not even nesting in my yard (that or we dodged a bullet using a leaf blower in the yard recently).

    From what I understand, paper wasps are not interchangeable with yellowjackets. Paper wasps make umbrella-shaped open-celled nests under eves and other structures and do not nest in the ground. In addition, they have the longer hind-legs and narrow “waist” typical of other types of wasps. The Western paper wasp is a rusty orgage/yellow color, whereas the European paper wasp looks very much like a yellowjacket due to the bright yellow/black coloration. European paper wasps, however, have orange-yellow antenna and yellowjackets have black antenna and are smaller in size. Yellow jackets tend to fly a lot faster and more erratically, and so initially at a distance I was mistaking them for horseflies vs. wasps. Then I grabbed my camera and zoomed in and realized what I was really dealing with. Yikes!

  7. I’ve successfully obliterated y.j. ground nests by quickly inserting a funnel filled with Ortho Orthene fire ant killer powder & shaking it to fill their insidious tunnel. Sometimes will cover with dirt after this, at night. Have also set poisoned bait using 1/2 teaspoon Taurus SC mixed in 12 oz. white breast chicken. The can of bait’s housed in a cage of 1/4″ opening steel mesh (hardware cloth). Place on a short stand, in the shade, in the morning, in a central area with good air flow. In a day or two, yellow jackets are wiped out.

  8. Hot water with dish washing soap such as dawn works well on paper wasp nests. When it hits them it is sucked into lungs and drowns them almost as fast as gas but has none of the problems as gas does.

  9. best and cheapest trap ever is to cut the top off a two litre pop bottle at about the shoulder of the bottle. invert the cut-off top and stick in back into the bottle so you have a funnel going down. pour in a couple of cups of apple juice and set out in the sun…the bees go down into the trap and cant get out cuz they buzz up against the sides like they do with your windows in your house. they exhaust themselves and end up in the juice.

    • Yellow jackets are more attracted to meat in the spring and early summer, and carbohydrates like fruit juice in late summer/fall.

  10. We had a nest under the front porch that would attack anyone walking up the steps. After attempts with traps (must be placed in their flight path as they always use the same one) we had little luck. Sprays did nothing. A friend came over with the biggest shop vac ever. He sprayed the inside with wasp killer then proceeded as you described. It sounded like a popcorn popper but at the end it was full of dead wasps. We immortalized in song: Raul The Bug Sucker!


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