The Original Marseille Soap Recipe

Marseille soap is renowned around the world for its extraordinary quality: it is an excellent and versatile cleanser for personal care, laundry, dishes and anything else that you might use soap for, and is also gentle and nourishing. That’s because this uses only the finest ingredients sourced in France, including Mediterranean seawater.

Marseille soap is so respected that there are actually laws in France concerning what can and cannot be called Marseille soap. If you want all of the benefits without traveling to France to get it, or ordering expensive, imported versions then you are in luck. Today I will be sharing with you and inspired, easy version that is simple to make yourself at home even if you’ve never made soap before.

With some basic tools and a few ingredients you’ll be ready. I will tell you everything you need to know below.

Ingredients

The cold process method requires precise measurements and high-quality ingredients to ensure a successful saponification reaction, which transforms oils and lye into soap. Here’s what you’ll need for a small batch of Marseille soap:

Olive Oil, 9 oz.: Use the highest quality, purest extra virgin olive oil you can find, as it’s the main ingredient of the soap. Olive oil gives the soap its gentle, moisturizing properties and wonderfully smooth texture.

Distilled Water, 2.5 oz: Pure distilled water is essential for this recipe. Avoid tap water if at all possible, as it may contain chemical additives or minerals that can interfere with the saponification process. In a pinch, purified or spring water can work, but distilled is best for consistent results.

Lye, 1.2oz (35 grams): AKA, caustic soda. This is the most important ingredient in traditional soap making. Lye reacts with olive oil to actually create the soap.

But pay attention: Lye is highly corrosive, so handle it with extreme care and always, always wear protective gear provide plenty of ventilation in your work area. Double check and be sure you get 100% sodium hydroxide lye specifically labeled for soap making.

That’s it for the ingredients. You’ll need a few basic supplies that we’ll talk about in the next section.

Supplies and Equipment

The cold process method is simple, but involves working with corrosive lye. That demands specific tools and additional safety equipment so you can stay safe. Here’s what you’ll need:

Digital Scale: Precise measurements are a must for successful cold process soap making. A digital scale is indispensable.

Soap Molds: Use silicone soap molds for easy removal of hardened soap. Traditional Marseille soap is often square or cubed, but you can cut it to size if using a larger mold. Alternatively, you can use plastic or glass molds or upcycle with cut-down paper milk cartons.

Heat-resistant Small Cups or Bowls: Use heat-resistant Pyrex or plastic containers for mixing the lye and water, as the reaction generates significant heat.

Silicone Spatula: A silicone spatula is perfect for stirring the soap mixture and scraping it into molds.

Hand Blender: A stick blender is essential for mixing the lye solution and olive oil thoroughly to achieve the proper consistency, known as “trace,” when the mixture thickens and becomes opaque.

Wooden Spoon: Use a wooden spoon or other utensil to stir the lye into water.

Thermometer: A digital or infrared thermometer helps monitor the temperature of the lye solution and olive oil, which should both be around 113°F/45°C when combined. Lacking these high-tech tools, a jam thermometer can work in a pinch.

Large Bowl: Used for preparing the soap mixture prior to pouring.

Knife and Cutting Board: A sturdy knife and cutting board are needed to cut the soap into bars if you use larger molds.

Measuring Spoons and Cups: Handy for handling smaller quantities of ingredients.

Protective Gloves: Heavy-duty, chemical-resistant gloves are non-negotiable!

Safety Goggles: Lye can ravage your eyes. Protect them from lye splashes at all times.

Respirator Mask: A mask prevents inhalation of caustic vapors released when mixing the lye and water. Nonetheless, be sure you work in a well-ventilated area, ideally one with steady airflow from outside.

Step-by-Step Instructions

The cold process method is straightforward but you need to pay attention to quantities and procedure for your safety! You’ll be handling lye which is highly corrosive. Read through all of these steps in their entirety before you begin so you know what to expect.

Step 1: Prepare your workspace. Clear your kitchen or work area, ensuring it’s clean and tidy. Lay down old towels to catch spills and protect surfaces. Gather all ingredients and supplies within easy reach. Put on protective gloves, safety goggles, and a mask to shield yourself from lye.

Step 2: Weigh the water. Using a digital scale, measure 2.5oz of distilled water into a cup. Be ready: the lye reaction will generate significant heat.

Step 3: Weigh the lye. In a separate cup, carefully measure 1.2oz of lye. Work slowly to avoid spills, and keep your protective gear on:

Step 4: Mix lye into water, monitor temperature. Slowly pour the lye into the water; never the other way around, as this can cause dangerous spattering.

Stir gently with wooden spoon until fully dissolved. The solution will heat up quickly. Set it aside to cool to about 113°F (45ºC), monitoring with the thermometer. Do not inhale the vapors, and keep the area ventilated.

Step 5: Heat the olive oil. Weigh 9 oz of olive oil into a large container big enough to hold about 300g of the final soap mixture. Warm the oil gently in a water bath or microwave until it reaches approximately 113°F, matching the lye solution’s temperature:

Step 6: Combine lye and oil. Once both the lye solution and olive oil are at 113°F, slowly pour the lye solution into the oil container. Use a hand blender to mix the two phases, blending in short bursts until smooth and consistent.

Mix until the mixture thickens and becomes opaque, reaching a consistency known as “trace,” where a drizzle of the mixture leaves a faint trail on the surface.

Step 7: Pour into molds. Carefully pour the soap mixture into silicone molds, filling them to the desired level. Tap the molds gently on the counter to release air bubbles and level the surface. If overfilled, scoop out excess with a spoon while the mixture is still liquid.

Step 8: Let the soap set up. Cover the molds with a cloth and set them in a cool, dry place to harden for a few days. Avoid moving them to ensure even setting. In humid environments, allow extra time.

Step 9: Unmold and cut if needed. Once hardened, carefully pop the soap out of the molds.

If you used larger molds, use a knife to cut the soap into square or cubed bars, traditional for Marseille soap, on a cutting board.

Step 10: Cure the soap completely. Place the bars in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area to cure for at least several months, ideally up to a year if you can wait that long.

The high olive oil content makes for a great soap but requires a long curing time to complete the saponification reaction. Check the bars periodically to ensure they’re drying evenly.

Step 11: Store and enjoy! Once cured, wrap the bars in parchment paper or store in an airtight container to preserve them.

Tips, Tricks and Variations

Optional Additions

To further enhance your soap, you can add any of the following to the mixture right after Step 6, above. Simply remix thoroughly just prior to pouring the mix into the molds.

Essential Oil, ½ tsp or less: For a pleasant fragrance and added properties, consider adding a small amount of essential oil. Lavender or rosemary are traditional choices for Marseille soap, but you can experiment with others like citrus for a fresh twist. Note you should use only essential oils, not fragrance oils, which are too harsh and may disrupt the soap’s beneficial qualities.

French Green Clay Powder, 1 tsp: This one enhances the soap’s cleansing power, gently exfoliates skin, and boosts the absorption of dirt and grime. It’s a traditional addition to some Marseille soaps and adds a subtle green hue, but it’s not strictly necessary.

Helpful Tips

• Try different essential oil combinations. Mix lavender and rosemary for a classic scent, or experiment with citrus oils like lemon or orange for a fresh twist. Always stick to essential oils, not fragrance oils as said.
• Press or stamp your soap with a design. Before the soap fully hardens, about 6-8 hours after pouring, press a clean soap stamp or other textured object into the surface to decorate it.
• Wrap in craft paper for a classy gift. For gifting, wrap each bar in brown craft paper or parchment and tie with twine.